THE FIRST BRITISH BUFFALO MOZZARELLA GETS OFF TO A RACY START

THE FIRST BRITISH FRESH BUFFALO MOZZARELLA GETS OFF TO A RACY START

Only a former racing driver used to testing himself (and his Ferrari) to the limit would come up with such a crazy notion as producing proper buffalo mozaarella in the UK. Jody Scheckter, Formula One World Champion turned uncompromising organic/biodynamic farmer whose long cherished a deep passion for Italian food and already farmed Asian water buffalo, embarked on his mission impossible two years ago. Yesterday, he unveiled the first serious buffalo mozzarella to be produced in the UK in the gorgeous glam surroundings of L’Anima, currently the best and most glam Italian restaurant in London and I was most impressed. The unpasturised buffalo mozzarella had an ultra fresh slightly herbaceous, hay flavour and very different more “nervy” firmer texture than I was used to experiencing in the UK, even when I’d thought I was tasting ultra fresh mozzarella. It turns out that what I’d thought was the best and freshest: milky, somewhat floppy mozzarella distended from its skin should sound alarm triggers in my tastebuds as it is well past its best and the extreme milkiness is the gradual build-up of bacteria. I also learnt that buffalo mozzarella should never be eaten fridge cold, it’s at its optimum served room temperature to bring out its flavour and natural sweetness. What’s more it needs no accompaniment besides a drizzle of the best extra virgin olive oil you can lay your hands on and a few choice leaves. Says Francesco Mazzei, head chef of L’Anima “I would only tomatoes and basil if the buffalo mozzarella is 3 or 4 days old. It’s best practically naked.”

This properly zingy mozzarella has a tangible burst of freshness and a little milk literally oozes out. I like the fact that Southern Italian say that if you don’t have a good dribble down your chin, you are not eating proper mozzarella!

Already chefs including the ever wonderfully passionate Raymond Blanc have given Laverstoke Park’s buffalo mozzarella the thumbs up. As Blanc said over a tasting, characteristically forthright “It takes balls to introduce an English mozzarella!” Scheckter retorted quicker than one of his best photo finishes: “If McLaren can beat Ferrari I can beat the Italians at mozzarella. “ Also Eric Chavot at The Capital, The Fifth Floor at Harvey Nichols and The Vineyard at Stockcross. Morever, an even greater vote of confidence, besides L’Anima, Claudio Pulze’s Italian restaurants Via Condotti, Al Duca and his newest Tuscan Osteria Dell’Angelo which I am longing to try, are all going to serve British mozzarella, quite an accolade among ultra patriotic Italians. Buy it too at Neal’s Yard Dairy, La Fromagerie, Harvey Nichols among others.

www.laverstokepark.co.uk