Monday, 16 February 2009

Not what you expect from the decadent Sketch, but is this the best afternoon tea in London?

Sketch the daringly different, glam gastro/clubby joint venture of Pierre Gagnaire and Mourad Mazouz is not the first place to consider rocking up for afternoon tea, but I’d contend it serves the most delicately exquisite cakes in town, and the afternoon tea is generous and quirky too. It’s served in the Parlour, a somewhat louche and wacky mix of brocante sofas and lighting with unexpected flourishes and a great sense of theatricality. I love the cabinets displaying the cakes like jewels and the fold out armoire with drawers of tea and fold out shelves of champagne too. The tiered tea-stand has definite 3 Michelin star Gagnaire touches of brilliance and eccentricity. Smoked salmon is served in a finger brioche. Ham and mustard baguette is wrapped in a greaseproof paper cone. Scones are superlative, ultra light and tasty. But it’s the patisserie that really thrilled me and my god-daughter foodie-in-the-making Flossie: wondrously light chocolate delice, perfect tiny lemon and blood orange tarts especially and a skewer of caramelised pinepple. I’d advise supplementing one afternoon tea between two with a couple of the special selection cakes which push the patisserie boundaries: an apple and calvados almost jelly like confection with caramelised pecans and a tarte fine base was especially wonderful.
You must look at their wildly bonkers website - www.sketch.uk.com

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